Replacing your exterior door is one of those home improvements that really pays off. For starters, newer doors are often designed with better insulation properties, like foam tape or foam insulation, contributing significantly to energy efficiency. This means less energy wasted on heating and cooling, which can help decrease those bills over time. Modern doors also offer enhanced security through features like reinforced construction, robust locks, and even smart entry systems for peace of mind. Plus, a new door, perhaps tailored to your tastes, can boost your home’s visual appeal and keep your entrance looking stylish. And choosing durable, low-maintenance materials can save you costs and hassle in the long run.
Should you go DIY or hire a professional?
There’s no single right answer; it truly depends on you. Doing it yourself takes effort and some building knowledge, but it’s certainly doable with the right approach and materials. On the other hand, bringing in a professional contractor might be a better shout if you’re keen for the installation to be absolutely perfect, especially if the door is made of very high-quality materials or is a different size from your old one, which requires a bit more expertise. Professional installation is also a worthwhile investment for more complex doors like double doors, those with sidelights or transoms, or if you’re changing the style or combination of your entryway. Opting for experts means they handle the project from start to finish, saving you time and ensuring it’s done correctly the first time. Companies like Window World of the Port City, Louisville Window Company, Unitedporte, and Pella offer professional installation services.
If you’re weighing up the costs, installing an exterior door yourself can save you on labour fees. On average, the cost to install an front door can range quite a bit, potentially from around $500 to over $2000 , with an average sitting around $1300. The final price tag depends on things like the type and material of the door, its size, the necessary hardware, and labour costs if you hire someone. For a high-quality, durable door installed by experts, you might anticipate paying somewhere between $1000-$2000.
Okay, decision made? Ready to roll up your sleeves? Here’s a general guide on how to install an exterior door step-by-step. This process usually assumes you’re installing a ‘prehung’ exterior door and often involves removing the old door panel and frame without messing with the surrounding brick or siding. Remember to always check the installation instructions provided with your specific door.
What You’ll Need
Before you begin, make sure you have your tools and materials ready. This typically includes:
- Levels (preferably 2 ft and 4 ft)
- A caulk gun and polyurethane or silicone caulk/sealant
- Nails (finish nails, galvanized casing nails) and screws (deck screws, trim screws, longer hinge screws)
- A hammer
- A pry bar
- A utility knife
- Measuring tape
- Shims (flat wood slices or chips)
- Expanding foam or fiberglass insulation
- Flashing tape or self-sticking flashing membrane
- Backer rod (foam)
- A reciprocating saw or oscillating tool (potentially)
- Your new exterior door and frame
- Door hardware (lock and handle)
- Interior and exterior trim
- Putty knife
- Wood saw
- Safety goggles/mask (recommended)
- Drop cloth or cushion to protect the floor
Step 1 – Measure Your Door Frame
Before you take out the old door, get an accurate measure of your existing frame. Measure the width and height of the old door itself, rounding up to the nearest full inch. Measure the door jamb width from the back of the interior trim to the back of the exterior trim. You’ll also need the “rough opening” measurement (after interior trim is removed) and the “exterior opening” measurement (outside edges of the exterior casing). Taking your time here is crucial to avoid buying the wrong size door. Check the opening for plumb and level.
Step 2 – Remove the Old Door and Frame
Carefully remove the existing door and its frame. First, take the door off its hinges, which usually involves tapping out the hinge pins. Be ready for the door to be heavier than it looks. Then, remove the interior and exterior trim. You might score the intersection of trim and jamb or wall with a utility knife to minimise damage, especially if you plan to reuse the trim. Use a pry bar, perhaps with a block of wood for leverage. Next, remove the old frame or jambs, potentially cutting through the side jambs before prying them loose. Clean the opening thoroughly, removing debris, old caulk, or nails. Inspect the surrounding structure for any damaged or rotted wood and repair it.
Step 3 – Prepare the Opening and Install the Sill
Ensure the opening is clean and the subflooring near the sill is in good condition. Check the subflooring or sill area with a level. If it’s not level, you’ll need to use shims to build up the sill to the correct height. The sill needs to be high enough so your new door swings clear of carpeting or rugs inside. Test the fit by setting your new door in the opening. An important part is often installing a sill pan which helps protect against water getting in. Once the sill position (or shims) is right, you might secure it with screws. Apply flashing tape over the sill area and up the sides of the opening to protect against water intrusion.
Step 4 – Place the New Door Unit and Secure
Apply new caulk or sealant along the sill and frame. Carefully place the new door frame into the opening. Use shims on both sides and along the top to position it, ensuring it’s roughly centred.
Step 5 – Level, Plumb, and Square the Door
This is where shims are your best friend! Use shims behind each hinge point on the hinge side. Use a level to ensure this side is plumb (perfectly vertical). Secure the frame temporarily or ‘tack it in’ through the shims into the studs. Next, work on the latch side, shimming from top to bottom until the jamb is straight and plumb. The aim is to achieve a consistent gap between the door panel and the frame on all sides when it’s squared and plumb. Squaring means checking that the diagonal measurements of the frame are equal.
Step 6 – Secure the Frame Permanently and Replace Hinge Screws
Once everything is perfectly positioned with the shims, you can secure the frame permanently. Drive screws or nails through the jambs, particularly where you placed shims, into the wall studs. You should also replace the shorter screws in the hinges with longer ones (like 3-inch screws) that reach into the door frame, which helps prevent wiggling. Add extra nails or screws along the top and sides.
Step 7 – Check the Door’s Operation
Pause here and open and close your new door a few times. It should swing smoothly without sticking or dragging. Check that the weatherstripping makes proper contact. If needed, make small adjustments to the shims. You can check the seal at the bottom by trying to pull a piece of paper out when the door is closed – it should be difficult.
Step 8 – Insulate
Now, fill the gaps between the door jamb and the rough opening with insulating material. Expanding foam is a common choice for this, specifically low-expansion window/door foam. You might need a couple of cans. Once the foam sets, stuff any remaining small gaps with insulating material like fiberglass. This step is key for preventing drafts and improving energy efficiency.
Step 9 – Apply Caulk/Sealant
Apply caulk or sealant around the exterior edges of the door frame, where it meets the siding or wall. This is vital for preventing water from getting into the wall. For doors without brickmould, you might insert a backer rod first before applying the sealant. Apply a bead of caulk where the sill meets the jamb and the door slab. On the inside, seal the gap between the jamb and the frame with foam or backer rod and sealant. Smooth the caulk for a neat finish.
Step 10 – Install New Trim
Whether you’re reusing the old trim or installing new, fit the pieces around the door frame. Start with the interior trim, cutting it to size and securing it with nails. Then do the same for the exterior trim. You can use the old trim as a template or order precut pieces if your new door is the same size.
Step 11 – Install the Lock and Handle
Attach your chosen lockset and handle hardware, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Align the components with the pre-drilled holes and secure them with screws. Test that the lock and handle work smoothly.
Step 12 – Finishing Touches
Snip off any excess shims that are sticking out. Ensure all assemblies and accessories are in place according to your door’s manual. If your door needs finishing (like a primed jamb), paint or stain it with an exterior-grade product. You might also add an extra trim board below the sill for support if needed. Ta-da! Your new door is installed.
Tips for Ensuring Proper Fit and Alignment: To make sure your door fits and performs correctly, here are a few pointers:
- Keep checking for level and alignment. Use your level often as you install the frame and make adjustments with shims. Small misalignments early on can cause bigger problems later.
- Weatherproof thoroughly. Sealing all gaps with weatherstripping, caulk, and foam insulation is key to blocking drafts and preventing moisture damage.
- Test the door’s function repeatedly. Open and close it frequently during the installation process to catch any sticking or alignment issues early.
Choose the right insulation and durable materials:
The material of exterior doors affects their energy efficiency, security, and maintenance requirements. Exterior aluminum doors are known for their durability and energy efficiency. Fiberglass and wrought iron are also common choices for entry doors, known for their strength and durability.
If you decide to install the front door yourself before purchasing, remember to choose a front door brand that offers professional installation assistance. Grandsea, as a leading front door manufacturer in China, provides a comprehensive range of services from design, manufacturing, transportation to installation, and has been recognized and praised by over 20,000 customers worldwide.
